
Summer is make-or-break for colonies in British Columbia. Brood peaks, nectar flows surge (blackberry on the Coast, fireweed inland), and small mistakes can snowball fast. Use this guide to spot the biggest pitfalls and exactly what to do instead.
Quick Answer
Biggest summer mistakes: skipping mite tests, supering too late, rough inspections, poor ventilation/overheating, feeding during nectar flow, allowing robbing, missing queen issues, no water source, working bees at the wrong time, and failing to plan post-harvest treatments.
1) Skipping Varroa Mite Tests
Why it hurts: Mites explode with summer brood and spread viruses that weaken winter bees.
Fix: Test every 2–3 weeks (sugar roll or alcohol wash on ~300 bees). Act at ≥3% in summer.
BC Tip: After honey pull (Aug/Sept), plan your treatment immediately.
2) Adding Honey Supers Too Late
Why it hurts: Crowding triggers swarming and reduces honey yield.
Fix: Super early and generously as soon as 7/10 frames are drawn/covered.
BC Tip: On the Coast, be ready before the blackberry flow ramps; inland, watch fireweed.
3) Over-Inspecting or Rough Handling
Why it hurts: Chilled brood, crushed bees, or a rolled queen = set-backs.
Fix: Work smoothly every 7–10 days; keep inspections focused (queen, eggs, space, stores). Use enough cool smoke and avoid frame banging.
4) Ignoring Heat & Ventilation
Why it hurts: Heat stress = bearding, melted comb, poor nectar curing.
Fix: Provide upper ventilation, shade during heat waves, and ensure good airflow.
BC Tip: Coastal humidity amplifies heat stress; prop lids or use screened bottoms sensibly.
5) Feeding During a Nectar Flow
Why it hurts: Syrup can end up in “honey,” and open feeding invites robbing.
Fix: Don’t feed if nectar is on; use internal feeders only during dearth or nuc build-up.
6) Allowing Robbing & Wasp Pressure
Why it hurts: Robbing spreads mites/disease and can collapse small colonies.
Fix: Keep entrances reduced on weak hives, avoid spilled honey/wax, and use robbing screens late summer. Set wasp traps away from entrances.
7) Missing Queen Problems
Why it hurts: Queenless or failing queens lead to laying workers and honey loss.
Fix: Look for eggs/young larvae each visit; spot patchy brood or dwindling population. Re-queen proactively if needed (strong queens build winter bees).
8) No Reliable Water Source
Why it hurts: Bees need water for cooling and dilution. Without it, they’ll bother neighbours.
Fix: Provide a constant waterer with floats/rocks; refresh often in heat.
9) Working Bees at the Wrong Time
Why it hurts: Mid-day heat and wind increase defensiveness.
Fix: Inspect late morning on warm, calm, nectar-flowing days. Avoid cool, stormy, or dearth periods.
10) No Post-Harvest Treatment Plan
Why it hurts: High mites in August/September doom winter bees.
Fix: The minute supers come off, test and treat (Apivar, Formic Pro, thymol options), then re-test in 10–14 days. Schedule your oxalic acid for the broodless window in late fall/early winter.
Summer Beekeeping Checklist (BC)
- Test mites every 2–3 weeks; record results.
- Super early; keep space ahead of the bees.
- Keep hives ventilated; manage shade and water.
- Reduce entrances on weak colonies; prevent robbing/wasps.
- Verify queen status (eggs/young larvae) each visit.
- After honey harvest, treat immediately and re-test.
Helpful Tools & Guides
- Varroa Mite Chart (PDF): Season-by-season thresholds, treatment timing, and a printable tracking sheet.
- Seasonal Hive Inspection Checklist (PDF): What to check in spring/summer/fall/winter.
- Treatment Profiles: Apivar, Formic Pro, Api-Life VAR, Thymovar, Oxalic Acid—know temps and timing.
(Place internal links to these resources and to related posts like “Varroa Mite Checks: How Often and How to Treat,” “How to Do a Quick Hive Health Check in 15 Minutes,” and “Why Are My Bees Aggressive?”)
Final Word
Summer rewards proactive keepers. Give bees space, keep them cool and watered, monitor mites on schedule, and plan your post-harvest treatment before the flow ends. Do those things, and you set up strong winter bees and a great spring start.
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Summer beekeeping in British Columbia (Lower Mainland, Fraser Valley, Vancouver Island, and the Interior) is all about timing, space, and mite control. New beekeepers often miss the first warning signs—bearding, patchy brood, defensive bees, or a queenless hive because nectar flows (blackberry on the Coast, fireweed inland) can mask problems until it’s too late. The biggest summer mistakes include skipping Varroa mite tests, adding honey supers too late, and overheating hives without shade, water, or ventilation. Practical fixes are simple: test mites every 2–3 weeks with a sugar roll or alcohol wash, super early to prevent crowding and swarming, and provide a constant water source with floats or pebbles. When counts hit summer thresholds (≈ 3%), use season-appropriate treatments like Formic Pro, thymol products (Api-Life VAR, Thymovar) after the honey pull, and plan your oxalic acid for the broodless period in late fall. Pair chemical controls with IPM basics like drone brood removal, screened bottom boards, and hygienic queens.
Another set of costly errors for new keepers includes feeding syrup during a nectar flow, inviting robbing and contaminating honey, and failing to protect entrances from yellowjackets and wasps in late summer. Keep entrances reduced on weaker colonies, clean up drips, and use robbing screens when dearth arrives. Work bees in calm, warm weather (late morning), avoid rough inspections that chill brood or roll the queen, and log each visit, eggs present, brood pattern, space, stores, mite count, so small issues don’t snowball. Right after honey harvest (August/September in much of BC), test and treat immediately, then re-test in 10–14 days to confirm knockdown. That single habit protects the long-lived winter bees you’re raising now and sets up strong colonies for spring. For a done-for-you plan, use our Varroa Mite Chart (PDF) and Seasonal Hive Inspection Checklist (PDF), BC-specific timing, treatment thresholds, and a printable tracking sheet to keep your summer beekeeping on track.